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Overuse injuries in the elite rock climber
J T Rohrbough1, M K Mudge, R C Schilling
1Orthopaedic Surgery Service, Davis-Monthan Air Force Base, Tucson, AZ 85707-5300, USA. Joel.Rohrbough@dm.af.mil
Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise
|August 19, 2000
Summary
Flexor pulley rupture is common in elite rock climbers, affecting 26% of those studied. Despite this injury, climbers maintained a high performance level without functional disability.
Area of Science:
- Sports Medicine
- Orthopedics
- Biomechanics
Background:
- Closed rupture of the flexor tendon sheath is a known injury in elite rock climbers.
- Previous research on the prevalence of this specific injury is limited.
Purpose of the Study:
- To determine the prevalence of pulley rupture in an elite U.S. rock climbing group.
- To identify other common hand and elbow injuries in this population.
Main Methods:
- 42 elite rock climbers were assessed via injury survey and physical examination.
- Manual testing for clinical bowstringing was performed on each finger by a single examiner.
Main Results:
- Evidence of flexor pulley rupture or attenuation (bowstringing) was found in 11 subjects (26%).
- Collateral ligament injury to the proximal interphalangeal (PIP) joint occurred in 17 subjects (40%).
Conclusions:
- Closed traumatic pulley rupture is frequent in elite rock climbers.
- Climbers with pulley rupture injuries continued high-level climbing with no reported functional disability.