[Travel experiences in Central and Eastern Europe: Romania: the general's kisses]

The public face of Rumania is characterized by extreme contrasts between very poor and very rich people. The state is near bankruptcy, industry is slow in recovering from many years of madcap rule: politics, tourism and agriculture are in chaos, doctors are seriously underpaid and good health care is only available to the newly rich. World Bank loans have been largely spent on sophisticated hospital instrumentation, but the primary health care barely manages to survive. The capital has seriously suffered from Ceausescu's megalomania and many historic cities show the remnants of past glory. The country sometimes resembles a disorganized beehive. Rumanians try to steer a middle course between bouts of self-pity and their intense wish to become full members of the European Union. They are not averse to play-acting and one should not be surprised to receive a cordial accolade from a medical professor who chairs government committee meetings in full general's attire.