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Acclimatization and tolerance to extreme altitude.
1Department of Medicine, University of California, San Diego, La Jolla 92093-0623, USA.
Journal of Wilderness Medicine
|February 1, 1993
Summary
Extreme altitude (over 7000 m) tolerance is limited, with significant physiological challenges like impaired central nervous system function. Supplementary oxygen is crucial for improving exercise tolerance and safety during high-altitude expeditions.
Area of Science:
- Physiology
- High-altitude medicine
Background:
- Understanding human acclimatization and tolerance to extreme altitudes (over 7000 m) is critical for mountaineering and scientific research.
- Previous research has focused on factors influencing performance and survival at extreme elevations.
Purpose of the Study:
- To elucidate the factors determining acclimatization and tolerance to extreme altitude.
- To evaluate the physiological responses and limitations of the human body at extreme altitudes.
Main Methods:
- Analysis of data from the American Medical Research Expedition to Everest.
- Review of findings from the low-pressure chamber simulation, Operation Everest II.
Main Results:
- Extreme hyperventilation is a key response, maintaining alveolar and arterial PO2.
- Maximal oxygen consumption significantly decreases above 7000 m.
- Acclimatization is not sustained above 8000 m, with progressive deterioration observed.
Conclusions:
- Tolerance to extreme altitude is highly dependent on barometric pressure.
- Supplementary oxygen significantly enhances exercise tolerance and is recommended for expeditions above 8000 m.