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Related Experiment Videos

Limits to human performance: elevated risks on high mountains.

R B Huey1, X Eguskitza

  • 1Department of Zoology, Box 351800, University of Washington, Seattle, WA 98195-1800, USA. hueyrb@u.washington.edu

The Journal of Experimental Biology
|October 3, 2001
PubMed
Summary

Climbing higher mountains like the 8K peaks presents significant risks. Higher altitudes decrease summit success rates and increase the risk of death, especially during descent.

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Area of Science:

  • Physiology
  • Mountaineering Science
  • Extreme Environment Research

Background:

  • The first ascent of an 8000m peak occurred in 1950, spurring interest in high-altitude mountaineering.
  • Over 5000 ascents of the fourteen 8K peaks were recorded by 2000.
  • Mountaineers face hypoxia, cold, dehydration, and physical hazards at extreme altitudes.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To review physiological challenges of extreme elevation.
  • To compare success and death rates across mountains of varying heights.
  • To test the hypothesis that altitude increases risk.

Main Methods:

  • Analysis of non-experimental, uncontrolled data on mountaineering ascents and deaths.
  • Comparison of success and death rates for mountains including Rainer, Foraker, Denali, K2, and Everest.

Related Experiment Videos

  • Review of physiological challenges faced by high-altitude climbers.

    • Main Results:

    • Summit success rates decrease as mountain height increases.
    • Overall death rates increase with summit height.
    • Death rates during descent from the summit are higher on taller mountains.

    Conclusions:

    • Increasing altitude is associated with lower success rates in mountaineering.
    • Higher altitudes correlate with a greater risk of death, particularly during descent.
    • Findings support the hypothesis linking extreme altitude with decreased success and increased mortality risk.