Lumbrical tears in rock climbers

Area of Science:

• Sports Medicine
• Orthopedics
• Anatomy

Background:

• Performance rock climbing exerts significant stress on the hand.
• Specific hand postures, like the "one-finger-pocket" hold, are common in climbing.

Purpose of the Study:

• To investigate the biomechanical effects of "one-finger-pocket" holds on lumbrical muscles.
• To identify potential injury mechanisms in performance rock climbers.

Main Methods:

• Analysis of the "one-finger-pocket" grip biomechanics.
• Description of three clinical cases involving lumbrical injuries.

Main Results:

• The "one-finger-pocket" hold causes interphalangeal joint flexion and utilizes the quadriga effect.
• Holding with the ring or small finger shifts deep flexor tendons, increasing the distance between lumbrical origins.
• Ultrasonography revealed an organized hematoma in the third lumbrical in one case.

Conclusions:

• The "one-finger-pocket" grip may lead to lumbrical muscle disruption or tears.
• This injury mechanism is particularly relevant for ring or small finger use in climbing.
• Further research into preventative strategies for lumbrical injuries in climbers is warranted.