Influence of hydration on dihydroxyacetone-induced pigmentation of stratum corneum

Dihydroxyacetone, the browning ingredient in sunless tanning formulations, reacts with amino acids in the outer stratum corneum to form a mixture of high molecular weight pigments. Our initial observations indicated that high hydration of dihydroxyacetone-treated skin completely inhibited development of pigmentation. To investigate the mechanism underlying this effect, studies were carried out in isolated murine epidermis, polyvinyl alcohol/lysine films, and lysine in glycerol/water solvent. Murine epidermis treated with dihydroxyacetone showed a biphasic dependence on relative humidity: maximum pigmentation developed at 84% relative humidity and minimum pigmentation at 0% and 100% relative humidity. Filaggrin proteolysis, which shows a similar dependence on relative humidity and provides free amino acids in the outer stratum corneum, did not account for the relative humidity dependence of dihydroxyacetone pigmentation. A similar biphasic pigmentation response was obtained when polyvinyl alcohol film containing lysine was treated with dihydroxyacetone and incubated at various relative humidities, indicating that the structure of the stratum corneum was not a major factor. To remove the influence of the matrix, the reaction of dihydroxyacetone with lysine was followed at varying concentrations of water in mixed glycerol/buffer solvent. Again, greater pigment formation was found at an intermediate level of water (6% vol/vol) and little pigmentation at 0% and 100% water content. These results are consistent with a requirement for water at low relative humidity, which facilitates formation of free amine groups needed for the initial reaction with dihydroxyacetone, and with inhibition of the dehydration reactions by water through the law of mass action at high relative humidity.