Analysis of structural change in keratin fibers resulting from chemical treatments using Raman spectroscopy

In order to investigate the influence of chemical treatments (reduction, heating, and oxidation) on keratin fibers, the structure of virgin white human hair resulting from a permanent hair straightening process at various depths of cross-sectional samples was directly analyzed without isolating the cuticle and cortex, using Raman spectroscopy. The band shape of the cuticle was different from that of the cortex, and the cuticle had a more amorphous structure, compared with the cortex. The S-S band intensity existing in the hair surface remarkably decreased, while the S-S band intensity in the hair center was not changed by performing the reduction process. In the case of heating the keratin fibers after the reduction process, this tendency was unchanged. On the other hand, the amide III (unordered) band intensity in the cortex region increased, indicating that proteins existing throughout the cortex region caused a change to the random coil form. Moreover, approximately 95% of the disconnected -SS- groups were clearly reconnected by performing the oxidation process after heating (the degree of reconnection of -SS- groups was about 90%, in the case of oxidizing after reduction). From these experiments, we concluded that the heat treatment process in the permanent hair straightening treatment caused the randomization of proteins existing throughout the cortex region, thereby contributing to the acceleration of the reconnection of -SS- groups during the oxidation process.