Use of the dynamic vapor sorption meter to measure skin hydration properties, in vitro

Maintaining an adequate skin moisture balance is important for retaining soft, pliable, healthy-looking skin. This report describes the use of the dynamic vapor sorption (DVS) meter to quantify water content of skin in vitro under a variety of conditions. It is the only instrument that couples an ultra-sensitive Cahn microbalance (resolution=0.1 microg) with an environmental system where both humidity and temperature are controlled. This feature is important since the skin's water content is influenced by changes in the relative humidity.

In every experiment, the temperature was held constant at 25 degrees C, and the starting relative humidity (RH) was set to 0% RH. The RH was programmed to step in 10% increments ending at 90% RH. The RH was incremented to the next level only when the mass change was less than 0.005%/min.

A hysteresis was observed for all skin sorption/desorption experiments completed. Glycerin and the sodium salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (NaPCA) both enhanced the % water content of skin. NaPCA was a more effective humectant at high relative humidities (above 60% RH); while glycerin performed better at humidities below 40% RH. Washing the skin with sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) reduced the skin's ability to absorb water more so than washing with Tween 80, a milder surfactant. Vaseline petroleum jelly enhanced the water-retention properties of untreated skin.

The DVS can effectively be used to study the sorption and desorption properties of skin. We have shown that the amount of water absorbed is influenced by the RH, the presence of humectants and/or occlusive agents, and surfactant harshness.