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A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept.
Zoe Diana Draelos1, Joseph C DiNardo
1Department of Dermatology, Wake Forest University School of Medicine, Winston-Salem, North Carolina, USA. zdraelos@northstate.net
Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology
|February 21, 2006
Summary
Finished cosmetic products are not always comedogenic, even if they contain comedogenic ingredients. This study used a modified human assay to assess the comedogenic potential of cosmetic products.
Area of Science:
- Dermatology
- Cosmetic Science
Background:
- Comedogenicity is crucial for topical products.
- Acne cosmetica links ingredients to comedo formation.
- Animal models historically predicted ingredient comedogenicity.
Purpose of the Study:
- Assess comedogenic potential of finished cosmetic products.
- Utilize a modified human assay (Mills and Kligman).
Main Methods:
- Human assay on six individuals with comedone formation.
- Patch testing with cosmetic products on the back (3x/week for 4 weeks).
- Cyanoacrylate biopsies to quantify follicles and microcomedones.
Main Results:
- Finished products with comedogenic ingredients may not be comedogenic.
- Human assay provides direct assessment of product comedogenicity.
Conclusions:
- Ingredient-based predictions of comedogenicity may be unreliable.
- Direct testing of finished products is necessary for accurate assessment.