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Updated: Jul 19, 2026

Microwave-Assisted Extraction of Phenolic Compounds and Antioxidants for Cosmetic Applications Using Polyol-Based Technology
Published on: August 23, 2024
The "in vitro" percutaneous penetration of three antioxidant compounds
G Marti-Mestres1, J P Mestres, J Bres
1EA 2994 Genotoxicité Cutanée, Faculté de Pharmacie, Université de Montpellier 1, 34093 Montpellier Cedex 5, France. gmestres@ww3.pharma.univ-montpl.fr
Abstract:
Caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid and oraposide, a natural glycoside, are phenyl-propanoid compounds. These natural products have been reported to have antioxidant activities such as the scavenging of superoxide anions and hydroxyl radicals. These compounds could be used in the dermocosmetic field to protect the skin from oxidative stress induced by UV radiation. To this end, the permeation of caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid, and oraposide, through pig-ear skin was evaluated in vitro. The percutaneous permeation of these three compounds through pig skin was measured and compared using Franz diffusion cells. At appropriate intervals, up to 72 h, diffusion samples were analyzed using an HPLC assay. After 48 h of drug contact the permeation was also evaluated with a fluorescent microscope on vertical microtomed pig skin sections. In this study on excised pig skin, the flux value was found to be equal to 0.32 and 0.48 microgcm(-2)h(-1) for caffeic and chlorogenic acids, respectively; for oraposide the levels were below the limit of detection and the flux was not evaluated. These results were corroborated by fluorescent microscopy. Caffeic and chlorogenic acids were found in all skin sections, and these might represent a systemic activity, whereas oraposide remained in the upper superficial layer of the skin. This latter phenomenon seems to be interesting for dermocosmetic applications.
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