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The use of hydroxy acids on the skin: characteristics of C8-lipohydroxy acid
Didier Saint-Léger1, Jean-Luc Lévêque, Michèle Verschoore
1L'Oreal Recherche, Shanghai, China.
Abstract:
The hydroxy acids are widely used in skin creams because of their exfoliating and rejuvenating effect on photoaged skin. As a member of this family, the salicylic acid derivative known in the literature as 2-hydroxy-5-octanoyl benzoic acid or beta-lipohydroxy acid has also been proposed as an exfoliant and as a treatment of photoaged skin and acne. This article reviews the effects of the hydroxy acids and compares them to those of the salicylic acid derivative. We propose the name C(8)-lipohydroxy acid (C8-LHA) for this derivative to differentiate it from other related compounds. The lipophilic nature of C8-LHA and its relatively slow penetration in the skin afford it an exfoliating effect that is efficient at low concentrations. It appears to have antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and anticomedogenic properties, which make it effective against acne. Its antifungal and exfoliating properties are also likely to prove useful in combating dandruff.
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