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Related Experiment Video

Updated: Jul 11, 2026

Measurement of Spatial Stability in Precision Grip

Measurement of Spatial Stability in Precision Grip

Published on: June 4, 2020

Grip force safety margin in rock climbers.

¹Faculty of Sport Sciences, Université de la Méditerranée, CNRS, Marseille, France. frederic.danion@univmed.fr

International Journal of Sports Medicine

|September 21, 2007

Summary

Expert rock climbers do not significantly alter their grip force safety margins compared to non-climbers. Excessive grip force, especially during prolonged holds, increases the risk of hand injuries in climbers.

Area of Science:

Biomechanics
Sports Science
Occupational Health

Background:

Rock climbing can lead to hand injuries, potentially due to excessive grip force.
The safety margin (SM), the difference between grip force (Gf) and the minimum force to prevent slipping (Gmin), is a key factor in grip control.

Purpose of the Study:

To compare the relative safety margin (RSM) between expert rock climbers and non-climbers.
To investigate how object weight and trial duration influence RSM in different skill groups.

Main Methods:

Participants (expert climbers and non-climbers) held heavy or light objects for short or long durations.
Relative safety margin (RSM = 100 x SM/Gmin) was measured at the start of each trial.

Main Results:

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A Modified Lean and Release Technique to Emphasize Response Inhibition and Action Selection in Reactive Balance

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RSMs were similar for heavy objects (climbers: 155%, non-climbers: 148%).
For light objects, RSMs were higher, but lower in climbers (232%) than non-climbers (386%).
Longer trials unexpectedly resulted in higher RSMs across all subjects (246% vs. 215%).

Conclusions:

Rock climbing expertise does not appear to significantly alter RSMs in a way that reduces injury risk.
Suboptimal grip force optimization, particularly with heavy loads and sustained holds, contributes to hand injury risk in climbers.