A cautionary note on cosmetics containing ingredients that increase aquaporin-3 expression
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Updated: Jul 7, 2026

08:29
Preparation of Keratin Hydrolysate from Chicken Feathers and Its Application in Cosmetics
Published on: November 27, 2017
Experimental Dermatology
|March 4, 2008
Abstract:
Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) is a membrane transport protein that facilitates water and glycerol transport across cell plasma membranes in the basal layer of keratinocytes in normal skin. Motivated by a relation between AQP3 expression and skin water content, several companies have marketed cosmetics containing ingredients that increase AQP3 expression. However, caution seems warranted in targeting AQP3 to increase skin moisturization based on a recently discovered association in mice between epidermal AQP3 expression and skin tumor formation.
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Aquaporins
Aquaporins or AQPs are a family of integral membrane proteins whose primary function is to transport water, while some called aquaglyceroporins also transport glycerol. In addition, aquaporins have also been suspected to be involved in transporting volatile substances, such as carbon dioxide and ammonia, across membranes. Such AQPs that act as gas channels are often highly expressed in cells involved in the gaseous exchange, such as red blood cells, epithelial cells, and pulmonary capillaries.
Endocrine Signaling
Endocrine cells produce hormones to communicate with remote target cells found in other organs. The hormone reaches these distant areas using the circulatory system. This exposes the whole organism to the hormone but only those cells expressing hormone receptors or target cells are affected. Thus, endocrine signaling induces slow responses from its target cells but these effects also last longer.
