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Stratum corneum keratin structure, function and formation - a comprehensive review.

¹Dermatology Clinic, Karolinska University Hospital, Stockholm, Sweden. lars.norlen@cmb.ki.se

International Journal of Cosmetic Science

|May 21, 2008

Summary

This review explains how keratin filaments organize in the stratum corneum, influencing skin hydration and barrier function. New models suggest a cubic rod-packing and membrane templating mechanism for keratin assembly.

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Area of Science:

Dermatology
Biophysics
Cell Biology

Background:

Keratin is the primary non-aqueous component of the stratum corneum.
Stratum corneum hydration is influenced by keratin organization and filaggrin-derived amino acids.
The structural arrangement of keratin intermediate filaments dictates water-holding capacity.

Purpose of the Study:

To review the organization of stratum corneum keratin based on the cubic rod-packing and membrane templating models.
To explain how keratin structure impacts skin hydration and mechanical properties.
To elucidate the role of membrane templating in keratin intermediate filament formation.

Main Methods:

Review of existing literature and models, specifically the cubic rod-packing and membrane templating models.
Analysis of cryo-electron density patterns of native corneocyte and keratinocyte structures.
Integration of data on swelling behavior, mechanical properties, and hydration levels.

Main Results:

The cubic rod-packing model accurately describes keratin filament arrangement in the stratum corneum matrix, explaining swelling and mechanical properties.
The membrane templating model explains keratin dynamics and intermediate filament formation, aligning with cryo-electron density data.
These models account for keratin's association with lipids, insolubility, and polymorphism, as well as reduced cell volume and hydration from stratum granulosum to stratum corneum.

Conclusions:

Keratin organization, as described by cubic rod-packing and membrane templating, is crucial for stratum corneum structure and function.
Membrane templating, not spontaneous self-assembly, governs keratin intermediate filament formation and dynamics.
Understanding keratin organization provides insights into skin barrier function, hydration, and the transition from viable epidermis to stratum corneum.