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Topical proteolytic enzymes affect epidermal and dermal properties
International Journal of Cosmetic Science
|May 21, 2008
Summary
Proteolytic enzymes in skincare significantly improve skin appearance by altering epidermal and dermal properties over time. Continued use offers lasting benefits beyond superficial exfoliation.
Area of Science:
- Dermatology
- Biochemistry
- Cosmetic Science
Background:
- Proteolytic enzymes are used in skincare, but their long-term effects on skin properties are unclear.
- It remains uncertain if they cause superficial exfoliation or induce lasting epidermal and dermal changes.
Purpose of the Study:
- To investigate if an aspartyl dependent acid protease enhances exfoliation and improves skin appearance.
- To determine if continued use alters epidermal and dermal properties over time.
Main Methods:
- Participants applied a 15% enzyme serum and moisturizer twice daily for 3 months.
- A control group used a non-enzyme serum and moisturizer.
- Skin properties were assessed double-blindly, evaluating smoothness, texture, wrinkles, and firmness.
Main Results:
- The enzyme treatment group showed significant epidermal improvements after 1 month.
- Both epidermal and dermal properties improved significantly after 3 months.
- The control group exhibited only minor surface property improvements.
Conclusions:
- Exfoliative proteolytic enzymes provide significant aesthetic benefits through epidermal and dermal changes.
- These improvements are comparable to those seen with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs).
- Proteolytic enzymes offer a viable option for enhancing skin properties beyond superficial exfoliation.
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