Quantification of glycolic acid in cosmetic products using reversed phase high performance liquid chromatography

Many cosmetics contain keratolytic hydroxy acids to correct the effects of photoageing on human skin. Although methods exist for quantifying the alpha-hydroxy acid, glycolic acid in aqueous media, accurate methods for quantification in mixed hydrophobic and aqueous cosmetic creams and lotions are lacking. Glycolic acid was extracted from cosmetics using aqueous tetrahydrofuran (THF), separated with strong-anion exchange cartridges, and quantified by high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) with UV-VIS detection without the paired-ion reagents. In a recovery experiment, the mean accuracy of the method was 100.6%. The dynamic range of the method allows for the detection of glycolic acid at concentrations used in over-the-counter cosmetics.