Incorporation of triterpenic derivatives within an o/w/o multiple emulsion: structure and release studies

Triterpenic derivatives stimulate the total collagen synthesis of skin fibroblasts. Their incorporation within an o/ w/o multiple emulsion should protect them against oxidation, particularly for unsaturated derivatives and should lead to a modulated release after topical application. The influence of the incorporation of madecassic acid, asiaticoside and asiatic acid on the viscosity and the stability of a multiple o/w/o emulsion was studied. Rheological analyses were carried out by flow experiments in order to obtain the apparent viscosity and by the oscillatory technique to calculate the basic visceolastic parameters. The comparative stability study was assessed by the tracer release method with phthalic acid diethyl ester previously incorporated in the internal phase of the emulsions. Six months storage at room temperature and at 40 degrees C did not affect the stability of emulsions with triterpenic substances. The in vitro percutaneous absorption of triterpenic derivatives was investigated by Franz diffusion cells in hairless rats. Triterpenic derivatives were analysed in stratum corneum, epidermis and dermis, by liquid chromatography. Correlations were established between the triterpenic derivatives structure (glycosylated or not) and their percutaneous absorption. O/w/o multiple emulsion seems to be an efficient vehicle to preserve these active substances and to control their distribution in the skin.