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Updated: Jun 26, 2026

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Measuring and Modeling Contractile Drying in Human Stratum Corneum
Published on: March 1, 2017
Assessment of moisturizers and barrier function restoration using dynamic methods.
Catarina Rosado1, Pedro Pinto, Luis Monteiro Rodrigues
1UDE - Experimental Dermatology Unit, Universidade Lusófona de Humanidades e Tecnologias, Lisbon, Portugal. catarina.rosado@professores.ulusofona.pt
Summary
Mathematical modeling of skin water loss effectively evaluates moisturizer efficacy. This dynamic method shows improved skin barrier function after a 2-week treatment with a urea-based cream, demonstrating its sensitivity and reproducibility.
Area of Science:
- Dermatology
- Biophysics
- Cosmetic Science
Background:
- Dynamic modeling of transepidermal water loss (TEWL) curves from plastic occlusion stress tests (POST) characterizes skin water balance.
- Previous studies show this method detects impaired barrier function and differentiates skin types.
Purpose of the Study:
- To utilize the discriminative capacity of mathematical modeling for testing moisturizer efficacy.
- To assess the impact of a urea-containing moisturizer on skin barrier function in individuals with dry skin.
Main Methods:
- A urea-based moisturizing cream was applied to the lower legs of volunteers with dry skin for two weeks.
- Plastic occlusion stress tests (POST) were conducted on treated and untreated skin sites.
- Mathematical models were fitted to the resulting water desorption curves.
Main Results:
- Statistically significant differences in kinetic parameters were observed at the treated skin site after two weeks.
- These changes indicate an improvement in dynamic water balance and skin barrier function.
- The method demonstrated good reproducibility when compared to a previous study.
Conclusions:
- The mathematical modeling approach is sensitive enough for in vivo assessment of moisturizer effects on human skin.
- This method offers a faster and more informative evaluation compared to regression methods.
- Parameter analysis provides insights into the mechanism of action of topical products.

