Lipid nanostructures: self-assembly and effect on skin properties

This work evaluates the relation between the composition and the self-assembly of some lipid aggregates with their effects on the skin. To this end, liposomes, bicelles and micelles formed by dipalmitoylphosphatidylcholine (DPPC), dimyristoylphosphatidylcholine (DMPC) and dihexanoylphosphatidylcholine (DHPC) were characterized by electron microscopy and dynamic light scattering techniques, and applied on the skin. The results revealed that nanostructures with similar assembly but different composition caused different effects on the skin parameters. In general, samples containing DMPC affected the barrier function to a greater extent than systems containing DPPC. Additionally, our results showed that samples with the same lipid composition but different assembly exerted different effects on the skin. Liposomes decreased or did not modify the transepidermal water loss (TEWL), while bicelles and micelles increased this parameter. Hydration of the skin diminished especially after the application of micellar and bicellar samples. In vitro experiments showed structures like vesicles inside cutaneous SC (stratum corneum) incubated with DPPC/DHPC bicelles. These structures were not detected in SC samples incubated with DMPC/DHPC bicelles probably due to the different thermotropic behavior of DMPC and DPPC at physiological temperatures. Results reported in this work should be considered in terms of design of more efficient and specific skin delivery systems.