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Approaches to polymer selection for mascara formulation
Yelena Loginova1, Vibha Shah, Glenn Allen
1COTY, Inc., 410 American Road, Morris Plains, NJ 07950, USA.
This study evaluated film formers for mascara, assessing how pH, temperature, surfactants, and pigments affect their hardness. Findings aid in selecting effective film formers for mascara development.
Area of Science:
- Cosmetic Science
- Polymer Science
- Materials Science
Background:
- Hair-care and styling polymers are commonly used in mascara formulations.
- Effective mascara development requires pre-formulative screening of film-forming polymers.
Purpose of the Study:
- To introduce a pre-formulative evaluation method for mascara film formers.
- To screen film formers more effectively for eyelash application.
Main Methods:
- Evaluated film-forming characteristics of acrylics, polyurethanes, and pyrrolidone polymers.
- Assessed the influence of pH, temperature, surfactant, and pigment dispersion on film hardness.
- Utilized an Erichsen Pendulum Damping Tester to measure film hardness.
Main Results:
- A styrene-acrylate polymer softened by 30% upon heating.
- Pigment addition generally reduced film hardness, with exceptions for one acrylic copolymer and a urethane dispersion.
- Varying hardness results were observed with different surfactants and pH levels.
Conclusions:
- Pre-formulative evaluation effectively screens mascara film formers.
- Environmental factors like temperature, pH, and additives significantly impact film hardness.
- Understanding these influences is crucial for optimizing mascara performance.
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