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Jennifer Marsh¹, R Marc Dahlgren, Colin Clarke

¹Procter & Gamble, Miami Valley Innovation Center, 11810 East Miami River Road, Cincinnati, OH 45069, USA.

Journal of Cosmetic Science

|May 20, 2009

Summary

This summary is machine-generated.

A new hair oxidant using ammonium carbonate, hydrogen peroxide, and glycine at pH 9 matches current performance. This flexible system offers faster lightening or reduced hydrogen peroxide, with glycine preventing damaging radical formation.

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Area of Science:

Cosmetic Chemistry
Hair Color Science
Oxidation Mechanisms

Background:

Permanent hair coloring involves melanin lightening and chromophore formation.
Conventional oxidants use hydrogen peroxide buffered at pH 10 with ammonium hydroxide.
Need for improved oxidant systems with enhanced flexibility and reduced hair damage.

Purpose of the Study:

To introduce and evaluate a novel hair oxidant system.
To compare its performance against conventional hydrogen peroxide-based oxidants.
To elucidate the mechanisms of action and the role of glycine in the new system.

Main Methods:

Development of a new oxidant combining ammonium carbonate, hydrogen peroxide, and glycine at pH 9.
Assessment of lightening performance based on time, pH, hydrogen peroxide, and carbonate concentrations.
Analysis of key oxidizing species and melanin lightening mechanisms.
Investigation of glycine's role in controlling radical formation.

Main Results:

The new oxidant system demonstrates comparable lightening and color performance to conventional oxidants.
Adjustable carbonate and hydrogen peroxide concentrations allow for flexible lightening control.
Glycine addition effectively inhibits the formation of detrimental carbonate radicals.
The new system achieves excellent lightening with no increase in hair fiber damage.

Conclusions:

A novel, flexible hair oxidant system based on ammonium carbonate, hydrogen peroxide, and glycine has been developed.
This system offers tunable lightening performance and superior hair protection compared to traditional oxidants.
Glycine plays a crucial role in stabilizing the oxidant and preventing oxidative damage to hair fibers.