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Published on: December 10, 2019
Chemical reactions in perfume ageing.
J M Blakeway1, M L Frey, S Lacroix
1Roure Bertrand Dupont, 55 voie des Bans, 95 102 Argenteuil, France.
Perfume ingredients degrade over time due to air, heat, and light, forming new compounds and altering scent. EDTA dipotassium salt offered some protection against this perfume degradation.
Area of Science:
- Cosmetic Science
- Organic Chemistry
- Analytical Chemistry
Background:
- Perfume composition is susceptible to degradation from environmental factors.
- Understanding these changes is crucial for product stability and longevity.
Purpose of the Study:
- To investigate the chemical interactions affecting perfume stability.
- To identify factors accelerating or mitigating perfume degradation.
- To explain observed odor changes in aged perfumes.
Main Methods:
- Studied interactions of perfume materials with alcohol, water, air, heat, and light.
- Monitored changes in composition, acidity, and peroxide content.
- Assessed the efficacy of UV absorbers, antioxidants, and sequestering agents.
Main Results:
- Acid formation accelerated by air, heat, light, and natural products.
- Peroxides formed faster with heat, light, and air; decomposed with increased acidity.
- Aldehyde acetalization and stereoisomerization (e.g., transisoeugenol to cis) were significant.
- EDTA dipotassium salt provided notable protection against degradation.
- Ethanol converted to acetaldehyde and diethylacetal by peroxides, accelerated by natural products.
Conclusions:
- Environmental factors significantly impact perfume chemical stability.
- Specific additives like EDTA can offer protection against degradation.
- Chemical transformations like acetalization and isomerization contribute to scent alteration in aged perfumes.
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