Effect of 2-hydroxyacids on guinea-pig footpad stratum corneum: mechanical properties and binding studies

Synopsis The effect of aqueous solutions of 2-hydroxyacids of chain length C(3) to C(10) on the extensibility of undamaged and solvent-damaged guinea-pig footpad stratum corneum has been studied. The increase in extensibility of solvent-damaged corneum, caused by treatment with hydroxyacid, reached a maximum with 2-hydroxycaprylic acid (C(8)); on undamaged corneum, 2-hydroxycaprylic acid was the only hydroxyacid studied to give a significant effect. The increase in corneum extensibility produced by 2-hydroxyacids decreases when the pH is raised from 3 to 4. This loss of effect correlates with the ionization of the hydroxyacid (pK 3.85). The binding of radiolabelled 2-hydroxycaproic (C(6)) and 2-hydroxycaprylic acids to stratum corneum has been studied. 2-Hydroxycaprylic acid binds much more strongly than 2-hydroxycaproic acid, the difference in the binding being consistent with the hydrophobic binding energy of two methylene groups. Raising the pH above 3.5 results in a large decrease in the binding of 2-hydroxycaprylic acid in line with the corresponding reduction in extensibility. Treatment with 2-hydroxyacids results in a small increase in the water-binding capacity of solvent-damaged stratum corneum, but in a decrease in the water-binding capacity of undamaged stratum corneum. These data are discussed in terms of a possible mechanism for the plasticizing of stratum corneum.