Chapter 4. Cytomechanics of hair basics of the mechanical stability

Hair is a complex "cornified" multicellular tissue composed of cuticle and cortex cells mechanically acting as a whole. The cuticle cells overlap and cortex cells interdigitate, all cells being composed of different morphological elements and separated by the cell membrane complex (CMC). The CMC and the morphological elements of the cortex cells, the macrofibrils, composed of microfibrils or intermediate filaments (IFs), and the intermacrofibrillar and intermicrofibrillar cement or the amorphous matrix material determine the mechanical properties of hair. The IFs consist of alpha-keratin molecules being arranged in a sophisticated way of two parallel monomers and antiparallel and shifted dimers rationalized by the amino acid composition and sequence. The mechanical properties of hair result from mechanical interlocking effects, hydrophobic effects, hydrogen bridges, Coulombic interactions, and (covalent) isodipeptide and, in particular, disulfide bridges on a molecular level. The mechanical models applied to hair are based on a simple two-component system, the microfibril/matrix structure. An important regime of the stress-strain curve is the transition of the molecules of the microfibrils from the alpha-helical to the beta-sheet structure. Due to the longitudinal orientation of the IF molecules the longitudinal swelling of the fibers in water is negligible, the radial swelling, however, is substantial.