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Related Experiment Video

Updated: Jun 13, 2026

Collecting Hair Samples for Hair Cortisol Analysis in African Americans

Collecting Hair Samples for Hair Cortisol Analysis in African Americans

Published on: June 10, 2018

18-MEA and hair appearance.

Hiroto Tanamachi¹, Shinichi Tokunaga, Noriyuki Tanji

¹Beauty Research Center, Kao Corporation, 2-1-3, Bunka, Sumida-ku, Tokyo 131-8501, Japan.

Journal of Cosmetic Science

|May 8, 2010

Summary

Removing 18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) from hair causes fibers to tangle and misalign. This impacts hair

Area of Science:

Surface chemistry
Materials science
Hair fiber analysis

Background:

18-methyleicosanoic acid (18-MEA) is a key component of the hair cuticle.
The physical properties of hair, such as alignment and friction, are influenced by its surface composition.
Understanding the role of 18-MEA is crucial for hair care product development and damage repair.

Purpose of the Study:

To investigate the impact of 18-MEA removal on the dynamic contact angle and friction of hair tresses.
To elucidate the relationship between wet-state hair fiber alignment and dry-state hair morphology.
To determine the specific functions of 18-MEA in maintaining hair fiber parallelism and reducing friction.

Main Methods:

Chemical removal of 18-MEA using potassium t-butoxide treatment.

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Measurement of dynamic contact angles (advancing and receding) on hair tresses.

Friction force microscopy (FFM) to quantify surface friction forces.

Main Results:

Untreated hair tresses exhibited ordered, parallel fiber alignment in both wet and dry states.
Hair treated to remove 18-MEA formed disordered, tangled bundles in the wet state, leading to entanglement in the dry state.
18-MEA removal resulted in increased fiber adhesion, difficulty in realignment, and faster drying of distorted sections.

Conclusions:

18-MEA is essential for maintaining hair fiber alignment by promoting parallel arrangement in the wet state.
The presence of 18-MEA facilitates lower surface friction and higher receding contact angles, contributing to smoother hair.
Hair's wet-state alignment significantly dictates its dry-state morphology, especially for damaged hair lacking 18-MEA.