Exertional intensities and energy requirements of technical mountaineering at moderate altitude

The purpose of this study was to determine the exertional energy requirements of technical mountaineering at moderate altitude. Six subjects completed maximum graded exercise tests (MGXT) prior to a 7-day ice climbing seminar conducted in the North Cascade Range of the United States. Mean weight, percent body fat, and maximum oxygen uptake (VO2max) were 71.3 (+/- 15.1) kg, 11.7 (+/- 4.2) %, and 53.7 (+/- 5.4) ml.kg-1.min-1 respectively. Heartrates (HR) were recorded and averaged over 5-second to 1-minute intervals during selected mountaineering activities of the ice climbing seminar. Average and peak estimated VO2 (EstVO2) and estimated energy expenditure (EstEE) were calculated from HR utilizing regression equations generated from the MGXT results. Trail hiking with loads averaging 45% of individual body weight required an average EstVO2 of 21.8 (+/- 3.0) ml.kg-1.min-1 and average EstEE of 7.5 (+/- 1.9) kcal.min-1 over a 2.2 hr period. Mean peak EstVO2 was 37.4 (+/- 3.4) ml.kg-1.min-1 and mean peak EstEE was 13.4 (+/- 3.0) kcal.min-1 during this period. Technical ice climbing involving movement up and down a 12 m vertical height for a mean time of 14.3 (+/- 2.6) min required an average EstVO2 and EstEE of 25.7 (+/- 7.6) ml.kg-1.min-1 and 9.5 (+/- 3.4) kcal.min-1 respectively. Peak EstVO2 and EstEE means were 38.4 (+/- 7.7) ml.kg-1.min-1 and 14.6 (+/- 3.5) kcal.min-1. Two subjects were monitored during a 6-hour summit ascent on snow and ice from 1636 m to 3266 m. Means for average EstVO2 and EstEE were 21.6 (+/- 3.3) ml.kg-1.min-1 and 7.2 (+/- 0.8) kcal.min-1 respectively while peak EstVO2 and EstEE means were 38.0 (+/- 6.1) ml.kg-1.min-1 and 13.3 (+/- 1.6) kcal.min-1. The total EstEE was 3096.8 and 2485.4 kcal for these two subjects over the 6-hour ascent. The most experienced climber averaged 0.078 kcal.kg-1.min-1 and the least experienced subject averaged 0.105 kcal.kg-1.min-1 while climbing at identical paces over the same terrain. This indicates a possible experience factor which may increase climbing efficiency.