[Modern cosmetic agents and evidence of their function]

Fluorometers modified by quartz light conductors allow the recording of the skin-intrinsic fluorescence. Signals assigned to the aromatic amino acids permit a prognosis concerning the sensitivity of untreated skin to light and the sunscreen factor to be expected after the application of UV filters. We discuss the microdistribution and skin penetration of UV filters and describe the utilization of the image analysis technique both for the count and size determination of fluorescent sebaceous glands and for the quantification of the effects of antiperspirants. Based both on the selective increase of efficacy of deodorant soaps, analytically controlled, and on the differences of the deodorizing effects found in various test groups, we discuss the possibilities of improving deodorants.