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The simplest mechanical waves are associated with simple harmonic motion and repeat themselves for several cycles. These simple harmonic waves can be modeled using a combination of sine and cosine functions. Consider a simplified surface water wave that moves across the water's surface. Unlike complex ocean waves, in surface water waves, water moves vertically, oscillating up and down, whereas the disturbance of the wave moves horizontally through the medium. If a seagull is floating on the...

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Related Experiment Video

Updated: Jun 3, 2026

Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing

Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing

Published on: February 13, 2018

Global trends in wind speed and wave height.

I R Young¹, S Zieger, A V Babanin

¹Swinburne University of Technology, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia. ir.young@anu.edu.au

Science (New York, N.Y.)

|March 26, 2011

Summary

Global climate change is increasing oceanic wind speeds and wave heights. Extreme weather events show a faster rate of increase than average conditions, impacting ocean dynamics.

Area of Science:

Oceanography and Climate Science
Satellite Remote Sensing

Background:

Climate change research often focuses on temperature, neglecting other crucial oceanic factors.
Oceanic wind speed and surface gravity waves significantly influence climate dynamics.

Purpose of the Study:

To investigate global trends in oceanic wind speed and wave height using satellite data.
To analyze changes over a 23-year period, including extreme events.

Main Methods:

Utilized a 23-year database of calibrated and validated satellite altimeter measurements.
Analyzed global oceanic wind speed and wave height data.

Main Results:

Observed a general global trend of increasing wind speed over the 23-year period.

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Last Updated: Jun 3, 2026

Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing

Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing

Published on: February 13, 2018

Exploring the Effects of Atmospheric Forcings on Evaporation: Experimental Integration of the Atmospheric Boundary Layer and Shallow Subsurface

Exploring the Effects of Atmospheric Forcings on Evaporation: Experimental Integration of the Atmospheric Boundary Layer and Shallow Subsurface

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Investigating the Relationship between Sea Surface Chlorophyll and Major Features of the South China Sea with Satellite Information

Investigating the Relationship between Sea Surface Chlorophyll and Major Features of the South China Sea with Satellite Information

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Detected a lesser, but still significant, increase in wave height.

Found that the rate of increase for extreme wind and wave events exceeded that of mean conditions.

Conclusions:

Oceanic wind speed and wave height are increasing globally, indicating significant climate change impacts.
The accelerated increase in extreme events suggests heightened risks for coastal and marine environments.