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Prospecting for oil.

David S Shields

Gastronomica : the Journal of Food and Culture

|May 17, 2011

Summary

This summary is machine-generated.

Culinary oil development in the US shifted from olive and benne (Sesamum indicum) to cottonseed oil by the late 19th century. Today, olive and sesame oils are being revived in neo-Southern cuisine.

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Area of Science:

Agricultural history
Food science
Culinary arts

Background:

Exploration of plant-based culinary oils in the US from the 1770s to 1880s.
Thomas Jefferson's unsuccessful attempts to cultivate olives for oil due to climate challenges.
Introduction of benne (Sesamum indicum) oil by West African slaves, integral to African-American cuisine.

Observation:

Benne oil was a significant culinary oil in the Southern US in the early 19th century.
Commercial production of benne oil established it as a primary salad and frying oil.
The refinement of cottonseed oil in the 1870s-1880s led to its dominance.

Findings:

Cottonseed oil, initially a waste product, was refined into tasteless, odorless salad and frying oils.
Hydrogenated cottonseed oil (Cottonlene/Crisco) provided a cheap substitute for lard in baking.
Benne oil's commercial success waned with the rise of cottonseed oil.

Implications:

The history of culinary oils reflects agricultural innovation and economic drivers in the US.
The decline of benne and olive oil highlights the impact of industrialization on foodways.
Contemporary interest in regional foodways is reviving olive and sesame oil use in neo-Southern cooking.