Analysis of multi-class preservatives in leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics by matrix solid-phase dispersion

Matrix solid-phase extraction has been successfully applied for the determination of multi-class preservatives in a wide variety of cosmetic samples including rinse-off and leave-on products. After extraction, derivatization with acetic anhydride, and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry analysis were performed. Optimization studies were done on real non-spiked and spiked leave-on and rinse-off cosmetic samples. The selection of the most suitable extraction conditions was made using statistical tools such as ANOVA, as well as factorial experimental designs. The final optimized conditions were common for both groups of cosmetics and included the dispersion of the sample with Florisil (1:4), and the elution of the MSPD column with 5 mL of hexane/acetone (1:1). After derivatization, the extract was analyzed without any further clean-up or concentration step. Accuracy, precision, linearity and detection limits were evaluated to assess the performance of the proposed method. The recovery studies on leave-on and rinse-off cosmetics gave satisfactory values (>78% for all analytes in all the samples) with an average relative standard deviation value of 4.2%. The quantification limits were well below those set by the international cosmetic regulations, making this multi-component analytical method suitable for routine control. The analysis of a broad range of cosmetics including body milk, moisturizing creams, anti-stretch marks creams, hand creams, deodorant, shampoos, liquid soaps, makeup, sun milk, hand soaps, among others, demonstrated the high use of most of the target preservatives, especially butylated hydroxytoluene, methylparaben, propylparaben, and butylparaben.