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Cleansing formulations that respect skin barrier integrity
Russel M Walters1, Guangru Mao, Euen T Gunn
1Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products Companies, 199 Grandview Road, Skillman, NJ 08558, USA.
Surfactants in skin cleansers can harm the skin barrier. New hydrophobically modified polymers (HMPs) create larger surfactant structures, minimizing skin penetration and preserving barrier integrity for gentler cleansing.
Area of Science:
- Dermatology
- Materials Science
- Surface Chemistry
Background:
- Surfactants in skin cleansers provide hygiene but can disrupt the stratum corneum (SC) barrier.
- Surfactant interaction with skin removes essential components and compromises barrier function.
Purpose of the Study:
- To review molecular-level understanding of surfactant-skin interactions.
- To overview hydrophobically modified polymer (HMP) technology for developing skin-compatible cleansers.
Main Methods:
- Utilized vibrational spectroscopy and two-photon microscopy for molecular-level skin research.
- Investigated the effect of HMPs on surfactant solution properties and skin interaction.
Main Results:
- HMPs alter surfactant solution properties, forming larger, more stable structures.
- These HMP-induced structures exhibit reduced skin penetration compared to conventional surfactants.
Conclusions:
- HMP technology offers a method to develop effective yet gentle skin cleansers.
- Maintaining SC integrity and barrier function is achievable with advanced cleanser formulations.
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