Related Experiment Video
Updated: May 14, 2026

04:35
Preparation of Free-Surface Hyperbolic Water Vortices
Published on: July 28, 2023
Vortical freak waves in water under external pressure action
Anatoly Abrashkin1, Alexander Soloviev
1Institute of Applied Physics, Russian Academy of Sciences, 46 ulitsa Ulyanova, Nizhny Novgorod 603950, Russia. abrash@hydro.appl.sci-nnov.ru
Physical Review Letters
|February 7, 2013
Summary
A new vortical model explains freak wave formation using simulated wind pressure. This model accurately describes fluid particle rotation and the appearance of freak waves within Gerstner waves.
Area of Science:
- Fluid dynamics
- Oceanography
- Wave theory
Background:
- Freak waves pose significant risks in marine environments.
- Understanding their formation is crucial for maritime safety and coastal engineering.
- Existing models often simplify the complex physics involved.
Purpose of the Study:
- To present a novel vortical model for freak wave generation.
- To simulate the effect of wind pressure on water surfaces.
- To analyze the fluid dynamics leading to extreme wave events.
Main Methods:
- Utilizing an exact solution of 2D hydrodynamic equations for ideal, inviscid fluid.
- Employing Lagrangian variables to describe fluid particle motion.
- Simulating wind action via nonuniform pressure on the free surface.
Main Results:
- The model demonstrates fluid particles rotating in circles of varying radii.
- It successfully describes the appearance of freak waves within the context of Gerstner waves.
- Analysis of physical parameters supports the feasibility of the proposed formation scenario.
Conclusions:
- The vortical model provides a viable physical mechanism for freak wave formation.
- The simulation highlights the role of surface pressure variations in extreme wave generation.
- Further research can explore the model's applicability to more complex fluid conditions.
Related Concept Videos
Shock Waves
While deriving the Doppler formula for the observed frequency of a sound wave, it is assumed that the speed of sound in the medium is greater than the source's speed through it. When this condition is breached, a shock wave occurs.
When the source's speed approaches the speed of sound, constructive interference between successive wavefronts emitted by the source occurs immediately behind it. Initially, scientists believed that this constructive interference would result in such high pressures...
When the source's speed approaches the speed of sound, constructive interference between successive wavefronts emitted by the source occurs immediately behind it. Initially, scientists believed that this constructive interference would result in such high pressures...
Pressure Variation in a Fluid at Rest
In a fluid at rest, the pressure at any point beneath the fluid surface depends solely on the depth, not on the container's shape or size. This principle, known as hydrostatic pressure, arises because, in stationary fluids, there is no acceleration, meaning the forces within the fluid balance out. Only vertical forces, caused by the weight of the fluid above, contribute to pressure changes with depth.
When measuring pressure at two different levels within the fluid, the difference in pressure...
When measuring pressure at two different levels within the fluid, the difference in pressure...
Hydrostatic Pressure Force on a Curved Surface
Hydrostatic pressure on curved surfaces is a fundamental concept in fluid mechanics with broad applications in the civil engineering field. When fluid is in contact with a curved surface, as in a reservoir, dam, or storage tank, it exerts pressure that varies in magnitude and direction along the curved surface. To assess the total hydrostatic force exerted by the fluid on a curved structure, engineers typically isolate the fluid volume adjacent to the surface and analyze the forces acting on...
Pressure of Fluids
There are many examples of pressure in fluids in everyday life, such as in relation to blood (high or low blood pressure) and in relation to weather (high- and low-pressure weather systems). A given force can have a significantly different effect, depending on the area over which the force is exerted. For instance, a force applied to an area of 1 mm2 has a pressure that is 100 times greater than the same force applied to an area of 1 cm2. That's why a sharp needle is able to poke through skin...
Travelling Waves
A wave is a disturbance that propagates from its source, repeating itself periodically, and is typically associated with simple harmonic motion. Mechanical waves are governed by Newton's laws and require a medium to travel. A medium is a substance in which a mechanical wave propagates, and the medium produces an elastic restoring force when it is deformed.
Water waves, sound waves, and seismic waves are some examples of mechanical waves. For water waves, the wave propagation medium is water;...
Water waves, sound waves, and seismic waves are some examples of mechanical waves. For water waves, the wave propagation medium is water;...
Irrotational Flow
Irrotational flow is characterized by fluid motion where particles do not rotate around their axes, resulting in zero vorticity. For a flow to be irrotational, the curl of the velocity field must be zero. This imposes specific conditions on velocity gradients. For instance, to maintain zero rotation about the z-axis, the gradient condition:

