Skin cell targeting with self-assembled ligand addressed nanoemulsion droplets

Dermo-pharmacy and cosmetic industries have utilized nanotechnologies for two decades. Initially proposed as vector systems for encapsulation of actives, they gained interest in increasing cutaneous bioavailability. Here, we assay the benefits of self-assembled nanoemulsions bearing ligands for targeting specific skin cells. Nanoemulsions, small droplets ranging typically from 20 nm to 150 nm, possess key properties for further use in cosmetics: long-term stability, optical transparency, extended range of textures and versatility. We investigated this nanoemulsion system and show ability to encapsulate a range of cosmetic actives with various physicochemical properties. Furthermore, this nanoemulsion presents a low cytotoxicity and is capable of directly targeting skin cells through simple addition of specific ligand in a one-step production protocol. This is of interest for increasing bioavailability of actives encapsulated into nanoemulsion droplets which may have penetrated the skin barrier to specific skin cell. Taken together, these chemical and in vitro observations suggest follow-up with in vivo models.