Immediate and extended effects of sodium lauryl sulphate exposure on stratum corneum natural moisturizing factor

Natural moisturizing factor (NMF) serves as the primary humectant of the stratum corneum (SC), principally comprised of hygroscopic amino acids and derivatives that absorb moisture. Barrier disruption has been shown to differentially affect the levels of specific NMF components, though the kinetics of NMF component restoration following disruption have not been examined. Here, we investigated the impact of barrier disruption caused by surfactant exposure on a subset of NMF components immediately following exposure and out to 10 days post-exposure.

Volunteers wore patches containing either 1% w/v sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) or distilled water on their forearms for 24 h. Measurements of transepidermal water loss, erythema, SC water content and a subset of SC NMF and lipid components were obtained at both sites before treatment, the day of patch removal, and 1, 2, 3, 6, and 10 days following treatment.

Most measured NMF components decreased in response to SLS exposure. Exceptions were increases in lactate, ornithine and urea, and no difference in proline levels. In the days following exposure, reduced levels of several NMF components continued at the SLS site; however, all measured NMF components demonstrated equivalence to the vehicle control within 10 days. Histidine pH 7, lactate, ornithine and urea were the first to achieve levels equivalent to the vehicle control site, normalizing within 1 day after patch removal.

Results imply that NMF components derived from sweat and urea cycling are least impacted by SLS exposure whereas NMF components derived from degradation of filaggrin and/or other S-100 proteins are most impacted. This implies the restoration of the processes responsible for S-100 protein processing into free amino acids takes several days to return to normal. Further examination of the enzymes involved in S-100 protein processing following barrier disruption would provide insight into the pathway(s) for NMF restoration during SC recovery.