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Updated: Apr 8, 2026

Visualizing and Quantifying Pharmaceutical Compounds within Skin using Coherent Raman Scattering Imaging
Published on: November 24, 2021
In vitro and in vivo dermal absorption assessment of acetyl aspartic acid: a compartmental study
L Duracher1, L Visdal-Johnsen1, A Mavon1
1Oriflame Cosmetics AB, Skin Research Institute, Stockholm, Sweden.
Objective:
The purpose of this study was to evaluate the dermal absorption of acetyl aspartic acid (A-A-A) through an in vitro and in vivo evaluation with human skin after 6 and 24 h of topical application of a cosmetic formulation containing A-A-A at 1%.
Methods:
The in vitro experiment was carried out using the Franz diffusion cells system with ex vivo human skin samples. The profile of diffusion of A-A-A was evaluated after 6 and 24 h. The in vivo experiment was performed on human volunteers following a tape-stripping protocol after 6 h of topical application. A-A-A was quantified in the main skin compartments, that is the skin surface, the stratum corneum, the skin and the receptor fluid using LC-MS analysis.
Results:
The 24-h in vitro experiment confirmed the great penetration potential of A-A-A in all skin compartments. After 6 h of topical application, the removed tape strips from both in vitro and in vivo experiments were analysed and the profile of diffusion of A-A-A was determined, allowing also an in vitro/in vivo comparison. The diffusion profile observed on the in vitro skin penetration test is highly representative of the in vivo situation evaluated on volunteers.
Conclusion:
The combination of in vitro with in vivo data confirmed that A-A-A has the capacity to diffuse through the skin after topical application and reach the dermis as the targeted skin layer for potential anti-ageing benefits.
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