The tetrapeptide N-acetyl-Pro-Pro-Tyr-Leu in skin care formulations-Physicochemical and release studies

Recently there has been a growth of interest in the novel skin care formulations containing active ingredients such as low molecular weight peptides. In this paper we present new skincare formulations such as hydrogels, oil-in-water emulsions and water-in-oil emulsion containing a tetrapeptide (N-acetyl-Pro-Pro-Tyr-Leu). These formulations were characterized in terms of physicochemical parameters (pH, viscosity), stability and particle size distribution. Additionally, the diffusion parameters of the peptide in the obtained formulations were calculated based on the Einstein-Smoluchowski equation. Furthermore, in order to determine the penetration of the tetrapeptide through membranes its release kinetics were investigated. On the basis of release curves, the release rate constants were determined. The results proved that the properties of the formulations strongly determined the release rate of the tetrapeptide. The higher viscosity of the semisolid, the slower was the permeation through the membrane.