Footwear in rock climbing: Current practice
R D McHenry1, G P Arnold1, W Wang1
1Institute of Motion Analysis & Research (IMAR), Department of Orthopaedic & Trauma Surgery, University of Dundee, TORT Centre, Ninewells Hospital & Medical School, Dundee DD1 9SY, Scotland, UK.
Background:
Many rock climbers wear ill-fitting and excessively tight footwear during activity. However, there is insufficient evidence of the extent or harms of this practice.
Objectives:
To investigate footwear use in rock climbers with a focus on issues surrounding fit.
Methods:
A cross-sectional study with active rock climbers of over one year of experience completing a survey on their activity and footwear. Additionally, the authors quantified foot and shoe lengths and sizes alongside demographic data.
Results:
Ill-fitting and excessively tight footwear was found in 55 out of 56 rock climbers. Foot pain during activity was also commonplace in 91% of the climbers. A mean size reduction of almost 4 UK shoe sizes was found between the climbers' street shoe size and that of their climbing footwear using a calibrated foot/shoe ruler. There is an unfortunate association of climbers of higher abilities seeking a tighter shoe fit (p<0.001).
Conclusion:
With the elucidation of footwear use amongst rock climbers, further investigation may aim to quantify its impact and seek a solution balancing climbing performance while mitigating foot injury.
Related Concept Videos
Abrasion Resistance of Concrete
One such test is the revolving disc test, where three plates...
Types of Friction Problems
The first type of dry friction problem involves situations where there is no apparent impending motion....
Characteristics of Dry Friction
Before the wheelbarrow starts moving, the static frictional force acts tangentially to the contact surface, opposing the force that is about to induce the motion. This frictional force prevents the...
Quarrying of Stone
One common method involves using a diamond belt saw to cut large blocks from the quarry face. These blocks can be about 50 feet long and 12 feet high. After the initial vertical cut, drilling is performed at the base of the...
Taping Over Different Ground Profiles
Introduction to Joints


