The 1988 Stevenson Memorial lecture. Physiological responses to severe hypoxia in man

Recent measurements at extreme altitude and in low pressure chamber simulations have clarified the human responses to extreme hypoxia. Man can only tolerate the severe oxygen deprivation of great altitudes by an enormous increase in ventilation which has the advantage of defending the alveolar PO2 against the reduced inspired PO2. Nevertheless the arterial PO2 on the Everest summit is less than 30 Torr (1 Torr = 133.3 Pa). An interesting consequence of the hyperventilation is that the respiratory alkalosis greatly increases the oxygen affinity of the hemoglobin and assists in oxygen loading by the pulmonary capillary. The severe hypoxemia impairs the function of many organ systems including the central nervous system, and there is evidence of residual impairment of memory and manipulative skill in climbers returning from great altitudes. At the altitude of Mt. Everest, maximal oxygen uptake is reduced to 20-25% of its sea level value, and it is exquisitely sensitive to barometric pressure. It is likely that the seasonal variation of barometric pressure affects the ability of man to reach the summit without supplementary oxygen.