The role of topical dermocosmetics in acne vulgaris

Acne is a common chronic inflammatory disease and treatment modalities based on acne severity are well established. The role of dermocosmetics in dermatology, and in particular acne, is becoming more important as more research elucidates the mechanisms of action of products in the pathogenesis of acne. Dermocosmetics have the potential to be used as monotherapy or in combination with medical treatment. Therefore, it has become important for dermatologists to understand dermocosmetics to effectively and appropriately advise patients on their use. The objective of this review was to provide new insights into the role of traditional and novel ingredients in dermocosmetics for the treatment of acne, based on the authors' objective assessment of the published literature. The type of products discussed include: those which have a sebostatic effect, such as topical antioxidants and niacinamide; agents targeting abnormal keratinization, such as salicylic acid, lipo-hydroxy acid, alpha-hydroxy acids, retinol-based products and linoleic acid; agents targeting Propionibacterium acnes, such as lauric acid; and anti-inflammatory agents such as nicotinamide, alpha-linolenic acid and zinc salts. Despite the scientific advances in understanding these cosmetic ingredients, there still remains a lack of rigorous controlled studies in this area.