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Everest Physiology Pre-2008.

John B West1

  • 1Department of Medicine, University of California San Diego, 0623A, 9500, Gilman Drive, La Jolla, CA, 92093-0623, USA. jwest@ucsd.edu.

Advances in Experimental Medicine and Biology
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This summary is machine-generated.

Human physiology at extreme altitudes, like Mount Everest, was studied to understand oxygen deprivation limits. Research clarified adaptations enabling summiting without supplemental oxygen, revealing the extreme conditions near human tolerance.

Keywords:
Ascent of EverestExtreme altitudeMaximum oxygen uptakeRespiratory alkalosisSevere hypoxia

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Area of Science:

  • Physiology
  • High-altitude research
  • Mountaineering science

Background:

  • Mount Everest's summit (8848 m) presents extreme altitude challenges due to oxygen deprivation.
  • Early attempts to climb Everest were hindered by physiological limitations at high altitudes.
  • Pioneering work by Griffith Pugh in 1952 investigated high-altitude physiology and oxygen requirements.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To elucidate physiological challenges and adaptations for high-altitude expeditions.
  • To investigate exercise, gas exchange, ventilation, and blood changes at extreme altitudes.
  • To determine the feasibility of climbing Everest without supplementary oxygen.

Main Methods:

  • The Silver Hut Expedition (1960-1961) involved physiologists living at 5800 m.
  • Studies included measurements of exercise, pulmonary gas exchange, ventilation control, and blood parameters.
  • Maximal exercise testing was conducted up to 7440 m.

Main Results:

  • Research confirmed that climbing Everest without supplemental oxygen is possible.
  • The American Medical Research Expedition (1981) measured barometric pressure and collected alveolar gas samples at the summit.
  • Summit PO2 was 43 mmHg, with maximal oxygen consumption around 1 l/min, indicating the limit of human tolerance.

Conclusions:

  • Humans operate at the very edge of oxygen deprivation tolerance at the summit of Mount Everest.
  • Extreme hyperventilation is critical for survival at the highest altitudes.
  • The physiological limits at extreme altitude are a subject of ongoing scientific inquiry.