Natural Substances for Prevention of Skin Photoaging: Screening Systems in the Development of Sunscreen and
Vladimir Kostyuk1, Alla Potapovich1, Ahmed R Albuhaydar1
11 Department of Biology, Byelorussian State University , Minsk, Belarus .
Abstract:
Solar broadband UV irradiation is commonly regarded as a major causative reason for cutaneous photoaging. The pro-aging molecular pathways and cellular targets affected by UVA+UVB light in human skin have been extensively investigated. Notwithstanding growing knowledge in mechanisms of photoaging, research and development of clinically efficient, nontoxic, and sustainable topical preparations providing full physical, chemical, and biological photoprotection still remain a great challenge for pharmaceutical and cosmetic industries. In this study, we are proposing a panel of the in vitro methods for preselection of natural photoprotective substances with high photostability and low phototoxicity able of absorbing a broadband UVA+UVB irradiation (physical sunscreen), reducing UV-related overproduction of free radicals and loss of endogenous antioxidants (chemical protection), and attenuating UV-induced cytotoxicity and immune and metabolic responses (biological protection) in primary human epidermal keratinocytes and immortalized human keratinocyte cultures. Our data showed that secondary metabolites biosynthesized in plant cells in response to UV irradiation, such as phenylpropanoids and their glycosylated metabolites, aglycons and glycosylated flavonoids, and leontopodic acids, hold the best promise for complete natural topical prevention of photoaging and rejuvenation of photoaged skin. Meristem plant cell cultures elicited by solar simulating UV could be the most environmentally sustainable biotechnological source of polyphenols with combined photoprotective and antiaging properties.
Insights
Natural compounds like polyphenols from plant cell cultures show promise for preventing skin photoaging. These substances offer sun protection by absorbing UV radiation, fighting free radicals, and reducing UV-induced skin damage.
Area of Science:
- Dermatology and Cosmetology
- Plant Biotechnology
- Photobiology
Background:
- Solar UV irradiation is a primary cause of skin photoaging, affecting molecular pathways and cellular targets.
- Developing effective, safe, and sustainable topical photoprotective agents remains a challenge for industry.
Purpose of the Study:
- To propose in vitro methods for preselecting natural photoprotective substances.
- To identify natural compounds with physical, chemical, and biological photoprotective properties for preventing and rejuvenating photoaged skin.
Main Methods:
- Development of in vitro assays for preselecting natural photoprotective substances.
- Evaluation of photostability, phototoxicity, UV absorption, antioxidant capacity, and cellular responses in human keratinocytes.
- Utilizing meristem plant cell cultures elicited by UV irradiation.
Main Results:
- Plant-derived secondary metabolites, including phenylpropanoids, flavonoids, and leontopodic acids, demonstrated significant photoprotective potential.
- Meristem plant cell cultures are a sustainable source of polyphenols with combined photoprotective and antiaging effects.
- Identified compounds effectively absorb UVA+UVB, reduce free radicals, and mitigate UV-induced cellular damage.
Conclusions:
- Natural compounds, particularly polyphenols from UV-elicited plant cell cultures, offer a promising strategy for topical photoprotection and skin rejuvenation.
- The proposed in vitro methods enable efficient preselection of natural photoprotective agents.
- Sustainable biotechnological approaches can yield effective natural ingredients for cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications.
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