A general formulation strategy toward long-wear color cosmetics with sebum resistance

We propose a "Soft" + "Hard" formulation strategy for long-wear and sebum/oil-resistant makeup. The ratios of "Hard" nonvolatile components (e.g., resins, particulates, and solid emulsifiers) and compatible "Soft" nonvolatile components (e.g., nonvolatile oils and liquid emulsifiers) may be carefully adjusted to create desired long-wear performance and sensory. For a given formulation chassis, we recommend studying compatibility and viscoelastic profiles of blends made of "Hard" polymeric resins and "Soft" structuring polymers to gain fundamental understanding of the polymer matrix for pigment adhesion. Enhanced oil/sebum resistance may be achieved, where there is good compatibility among the "Soft" and "Hard" polymeric components and where there is considerable immiscibility between oil/sebum and each nonvolatile component. Our strategy may help promote cosmetic formulation development based on rational design and understanding interactions among components, develop novel long-wear formulation chassis, and properly evaluate emerging new technologies.