UVA and UVB formulation phototoxicity in a three-dimensional human skin model: Photodegradation effect

In vitro three-dimensional human skin models are an innovative alternative to evaluate cytotoxicity and phototoxicity in the cosmetic industry. The aim of this study was to use a skin model to evaluate the potential toxicity of sunscreen formulations with or without exposure to UV radiation. In addition, the toxicity of these formulations was evaluated after exposure to photodegradation. The results showed toxicity with all formulations/conditions tested, including the control formulation, compared to PBS. Cell viability of photodegraded formulations - prior to the phototoxicity radiation process - was higher, indicating that some formulation components were degraded into products with reduced toxicity. The results also indicated that avobenzone was more unstable/toxic than octyl p-methoxycinnamate under the same test conditions. The sunscreens and their formulations were shown to be toxic to skin model cells to some extent, even when not exposed to UV irradiation; however the biological role of this toxicity is unclear. This result shows the importance of testing sunscreen formulations in real in-use conditions. Finally, since we used an in vitro assay based on a human cell model, this non-invasive technique represents a suitable alternative to animal models for phototoxicity tests in general and could have application in screening new sunscreen products.