Crystallization Velocity and UV Performance of Formulations With Oversaturated UV-Filter Content

Cosmetic oils are used to dissolve crystalline lipophilic UV filters; however, little knowledge exists about the effect of other formulation ingredients. This study investigates the influence of emulsifiers on the recrystallization speed of 4 UV filters and the impact of UV-filter crystal formation on delivered performance. The crystallization pattern of studied UV filters was assessed using X-ray diffractometry, whereas their recrystallization speed in formulations with various emulsifiers was monitored microscopically. UV-filter concentration was above the saturation level to promote recrystallization. Furthermore, to understand the kinetics of recrystallization, the conformer number of each UV-filter was calculated. For the impact on performance, the absorbance of a sunscreen was measured before and after recrystallization of the contained UV filter. This study confirmed the crystallinity of tested UV filters. The emulsifier was shown to influence the UV-filter recrystallization speed in emulsions. Continuous oil phase sunscreens were critical; all UV filters recrystallized promptly in oils and water-in-oil emulsions. Large molecule UV filters showed slowest recrystallization speed explained by a higher number of possible conformers. Finally, this work confirmed the negative impact of crystal formation on the delivered photoprotection of a sunscreen.