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Updated: Jan 29, 2026

Capturing Dynamic Finger Gesturing with High-resolution Surface Electromyography and Computer Vision
Published on: March 28, 2025
Effects of finger taping on forearm muscle activation in rock climbers
Brynne Dykes1, Julianna Johnson1, Jun G San Juan1
1Department of Health and Human Development, Western Washington University, 516 High St., Bellingham, WA 98225, USA.
Abstract:
Flexor tendon pulley injury is associated with a change in relative activation of the flexor digitorum superficialis (FDS) and flexor digitorum profundus (FDP) muscles. The purpose of this study was to determine the effect of taping of the fingers on relative muscle activation of the FDS and FDP muscles in uninjured rock climbers. Muscle activation in 10 healthy volunteers were recorded using intramuscular electromyography (EMG) during a static hang with subjects utilizing the crimp grip without tape, with a circumferential tape and with an H-tape in random order. EMG data were normalized to a static hang with a non-crimp grip (RVC). Average EMG activity of the FDS as a percentage of RVC was 102.4 ± 59.1 without tape, 116.9 ± 35.3 with H-tape and 99.3 ± 35.3 with circumferential tape. Average EMG activity of the FDP as a percentage of RVC was 96.6 ± 40.0 without tape, 98.9 ± 30.3 with H-tape and 90.6 ± 28.7 with circumferential tape. Taping did not have a significant effect on average relative muscle activation of the FDS or FDP muscles (p = 0.069). This study showed that finger taping may not significantly affect the activity of the FDS and FDP during static holds while rock climbing.
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