How hormones may modulate human skin pigmentation in melasma: An in vitro perspective

Melasma is a common acquired hyperpigmentary disorder occurring primarily in photo-exposed areas and mainly affecting women of childbearing age. To decipher the role of sex hormones in melasma, this viewpoint reviews the effects of sex hormones on cutaneous cells cultured in monolayers, in coculture, in 3D models and explants in the presence or the absence of UV. The data show that sex steroid hormones, especially oestrogen, can modulate in vitro pigmentation by stimulating melanocytes and keratinocyte pro-pigmentary factors, but not via fibroblast or mast cell activation. In vitro data suggest that oestrogen acts on endothelial cell count, which may in turn increase endothelin-1 concentrations. However, data on explants revealed that sex steroid even at doses observed during pregnancy cannot induce melanogenesis alone nor melanosome transfer but that it acts in synergy with UVB. In conclusion, we hypothesize that in predisposed persons, sex steroid hormones initiate hyperpigmentation in melasma by amplifying the effects of UV on melanogenesis via direct effects on melanocytes or indirect effects via keratinocytes and on the transfer of melanosomes. They also help to sustain hyperpigmentation by increasing the number of blood vessels and, in turn, the level of endothelin-1.