Analysis of photokinetics of 2'-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate in sunscreens

2'-Ethylhexyl-4-Methoxycinnamate (EHMC), also designated as octinoxate, is an oily UV-absorber used in sunscreens for the protection of human skin against solar UV-radiation and represents one of the most employed UVB absorbers for that application. In water-in-oil emulsions EHMC was adjusted at a constant overall concentration, while changing the EHMC concentration in the oil droplets by adding a non-absorbing oil. In that way the EHMC concentration could be varied at constant optical thickness. Here we show that the kinetics of the photoreaction follows a second-order rate law, in line with the UV-induced [2 + 2]-cycloaddition reaction mechanism known for this UV absorber. The second-order rate constant decreased with higher overall EHMC concentration. This can be explained by the fact, that at higher overall concentration of the UV absorber not every EHMC molecule will absorb a photon due to the increased optical density, so that on average less photons are absorbed per molecule. On the other hand, the rate constant increases with decreasing polarity of the surrounding oil. Since the molar fraction of the trans-isomer of EHMC is augmented at lower polarity, more photons are absorbed in this case, as the strength of the absorption band of the trans-isomer is significantly higher than that of the cis-isomer. In conclusion, our experiments show that a high polarity of the oil phase and a high concentration of EHMC are advantageous for the photostability of this compound.