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Effect of emollients on UV filter absorbance and sunscreen efficiency
Myriam Sohn1, Lola Amorós-Galicia1, Stanislaw Krus1
1BASF Grenzach GmbH, Grenzach-Whylen, Germany.
Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology. B, Biology
|February 18, 2020
Summary
Choosing the right sunscreen emollient can boost UVA protection without more UV filters. Polar emollients, like Dibutyl Adipate, enhance UV filter performance, improving sunscreen efficacy.
Area of Science:
- Cosmetic Science
- Photoprotection
- Formulation Chemistry
Background:
- Sunscreens aim to increase UV protection without adding more UV filters.
- Solvent polarity influences UV absorber properties, but previous solvents were unsuitable.
- Emollients are key formulation components in suncare products.
Purpose of the Study:
- To investigate the impact of sunscreen-relevant emollients on UV filter performance.
- To assess how emollient polarity affects UV absorbance and protection factors.
- To identify optimal emollients for enhancing sunscreen efficacy.
Main Methods:
- Measured UV absorbance (λmax, E1,1(λmax)) of four UV filters in six emollients.
- Simulated performance of market-relevant UV filter combinations using a computational method.
- Assessed the influence of emollient polarity on Sun Protection Factor (SPF) and UVA protection.
Main Results:
- Emollient polarity caused a 2-3 nm bathochromic shift and 4-20% variation in E1,1(λmax) for UV filters.
- Emollient type had minimal impact on SPF but significantly affected UVA protection.
- UVA protection decreased with decreasing emollient polarity.
Conclusions:
- Polar emollients are recommended to optimize UVA protection in sunscreens.
- Polar emollients also improve the solubility of crystalline UV filters.
- Dibutyl Adipate demonstrated superior performance for both SPF and PPD values among tested emollients.
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