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Geologically controlled sandy beaches: Their geomorphology, morphodynamics and classification.

Shari L Gallop1, David M Kennedy2, Carlos Loureiro3

  • 1School of Science, University of Waikato, Tauranga 3110, New Zealand; Environmental Research Institute, University of Waikato, Hamilton 3240, New Zealand.

The Science of the Total Environment
|May 18, 2020
PubMed
Summary
This summary is machine-generated.

Geological formations, not sand, control most beaches. Understanding these geologically controlled beaches is crucial for effective coastal management, especially with climate change impacts.

Keywords:
Beach morphodynamicsCoral reefEquilibrium profileHeadlandsPerched beachShore platform

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Area of Science:

  • Geology
  • Coastal Geomorphology
  • Oceanography

Background:

  • Most beaches are influenced by underlying geology, including rock and coral formations.
  • Existing terminology for geologically controlled beaches is diverse and requires synthesis.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To review and synthesize the understanding of geologically controlled beaches.
  • To explore the influence of basement geology on beach formation and morphology.
  • To present a conceptual model of geological control on beach morphodynamics.

Main Methods:

  • Literature review and synthesis of existing research on geologically controlled beaches.
  • Analysis of geological controls on beach accommodation and cross-shore morphology.
  • Conceptual modeling of alongshore and cross-shore geological influences.

Main Results:

  • Basement geology dictates beach accommodation and influences cross-shore platform morphology (elevation, slope).
  • Geological features create alongshore wave energy gradients, affecting beach state and storm response.
  • Geologically-induced rip currents are key features of embayed beach nearshore circulation.

Conclusions:

  • Geological controls significantly influence beach morphology and morphodynamics, from sediment coverage to rip current formation.
  • A conceptual model illustrates geological control across alongshore and cross-shore dimensions.
  • Coastal management must recognize the unique characteristics of geologically controlled beaches for appropriate application of models and tools.