Emollient structure and chemical functionality effects on the biomechanical function of human stratum corneum

Cosmetic emollients are widely used in skincare formulations due to their ability to 'soften' the skin and modulate formulation spreadability. Though emollients are commonly used, little is known about their effects on the biomechanical barrier properties of human stratum corneum (SC), which play a critical role in consumer perception of formulation efficacy. Accordingly, our objective was to provide new insights with a study involving fourteen cosmetic emollient molecules with widely varying structures, molecular weights, SC diffusivities, topological polar surface areas (TPSAs), viscosities and chemical functionalities.

Mechanical stress in the SC was measured in vitro using a substrate curvature measurement technique. Stress development due to SC drying was measured before and after topical treatment with cosmetic emollients. Emollient diffusivity and alterations to lipid content in SC after treatment were measured via ATR-FTIR spectroscopy. The maximum penetration volume of emollient in SC was characterized to elucidate mechanisms underlying emollient effects on stress.

The application of all cosmetic emollients caused a reduction in SC mechanical stress under dehydrating conditions, and a linear correlation was discovered between emollient penetration volume and the degree of stress reduction. These molecules also induced increases in stress equilibration rate, signalling changes to SC transport kinetics. Stress equilibration rate increases linearly correlated with decreasing intensity of the νCH2 band, indicating a previously unknown interaction between cosmetic emollients and SC lipids. Stress and penetration volume results were rationalized in terms of a multi-parameter model including emollient molecular weight, diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity.

We provide a new rational basis for understanding the effects of cosmetic emollient choice on biomechanical properties affecting SC barrier function and consumer perception. We demonstrate for the first time that emollients very likely reduce SC mechanical stress through their ability to take up volume when penetrating the SC, and how molecular weight, SC diffusivity, TPSA and viscosity are predictive of this ability. As cosmetic formulations continue to evolve to meet the needs of customers, emollient molecules can be selected that not only contribute to formulation texture and/or spreadability but that also leverage this novel connection between emollient penetration and SC biomechanics.